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Kent, the old transducer should come out. i removed 2 old ones to install my new one. they were both sitting on what looked like old hard grey bubble gum. I used a wood chisle with the flat side up and they popped right off. if a stronger epoxy was used you might have issues but mine looked like they used the lowrance epoxy. as far as how far up you can go, someone from bcb will probably be on and help with that. post your year and model as that will help as they have changed the bilge area on different models and years.brad
Thanks brad. My boat is an 05 cougar
BCB uses a fiberglass compound on transducers. They are not supposed to use the 5 minute epoxy that comes with the transducer. The 24 hour epoxy will work fine for a transducer install.
So brad, once you extracted the old ducers, how did you remove the epoxy? Did you sand the fiberglass at all?
Also wondering what kind of adhesive I should use to glue my GPS receiver to the glass?
keep in mind i am in a 94, the decers were epoxyed in not glassed hence the question on the yr and model. probably not factory and while upside down in the bilge area i could not tell if he sanded before (previous owner)after i removed mine, yes i sanded and cleaned area and used model epoxy (24-48 hr cure) PLEASE check and make sure yours are NOT glassed in before trying my removal method or you will be pi$$ed!!!!! that area should be large enough to add a transducer
i see where they USE fiberglass compound not glass them in. I am assuming that they use just the resin which you should be able to remove, they will clarify or call factory. when installing the new ducer, get a good quality resin not the cheap 10-15 minute stuff they sell @ walmart, go to a hobby store and ask for modeling epoxy which takes 24- really 48 to cure good. there was a post a year or so back i will try to find on how to install one.
here you go, i did this mine works alot better than before on plane and at higher speeds.this is quoted from oldtimer57:I have good luck by going to a hobby store. They stock everything from 5 min epoxy (avoid this like the plague) to overnight cure. I personally do not like the putty crap either. Easy to get air pockets. Here is my approach to epoxying in a new transducer. 1. You need the epoxy, and a round cardboard tube that is slightly larger than your transducer. A good paper cup, or even a plastic cup will do just fine, just cut it off about 1″ or so from the top and save that part. You can use the bottom for mixing the epoxy. Finally get some modelling clay from wal-mart in the toy section. 2. Figure out where you want to mount the thing and clean the hull carefully. Mark the location by drawing a circle using your round cup as a guide. Scuff this up with coarse sandpaper to make sure the expoxy will bond. 3. Position the cup top and then use the modelling clay on the outside to hold the cup in position and also to seal the cup to the hull so that your expoxy wont run out underneath the edge of the cup. 4. Now mix up the epoxy, being careful to equally mix the two parts so that everything will cure properly. I usually pour a little into the cup, and then use a small spatula to make sure the epoxy wets the entire hull area without trapping a bubble. Now wet the bottom of the transducer with the epoxy as well. Carefully place the transducer in the cup, press down against the hull, and then cover the transducer with epoxy. Use something to hold the transducer down so that it doesnt tend to float away from the hull since the epoxy is pretty dense. 5. Check to make sure the transducer is all the way down, and that the epoxy comes up at least 1/2 way up the side of the thing, and then leave it alone. If you use 24 hour epoxy, Id let it set for 48 hours. Then peel the modeling clay and the cardboard cup away and you are done. Usually the slow-curing epoxy is quite a bit less viscous than the 5-minute type. The main thing you want to avoid is vigorous stirring while mixing as that can lead to lots of air bubbles. They will generally dissipate by floating to the top, but the fewer you have to start with, the better. To remove this later, a wood chisel and a hammer with the chisel set at the junction between the epoxy and the hull will pop it right out… Hope this works
Brad you are the man. I followed the instructions and did the install today. Saved me a couple hundo. Ill report back on how it works in a couple days. Thanks! Kent
You can select the transducer once they are interlinked through the Ethernet cable.
Yeh, I doing the same thing with setting up my 2 units 898. It was suggested to that I should keep my 787 in the console dash for a back up. More than likely I will keep it in place and run it with my 898 using the same antenna. I makes are to only run Sonar on the 787 and use my 898 for Gps and scanning.
Mach,If I understand correctly you want to run Down imaging off your US2 puck on the Minn Kota trolling motor?? You can not run DI off the US2 because it is only a 200Khz or 200Khz/83Khz (Duel Beam Plus) transducer.http://www.minnkotamotors.com/advantage … ectionID=4I suggest you use the transducer you will get with the 798 and mount it to the foot of the trolling motor so you have SI/DI at the bow and are reading from a transducer at the trolling motor.Here is a link to the Transducer that comes with the 798sihttp://store.humminbird.com/products/31 … 06bc4e8eeaHope this answered your questionsJamey
BScott wrote: Yeh, I doing the same thing with setting up my 2 units 898. It was suggested to that I should keep my 787 in the console dash for a back up. More than likely I will keep it in place and run it with my 898 using the same antenna. I makes are to only run Sonar on the 787 and use my 898 for Gps and scanning.B, should i upgrade to 2 898s? I was reading that the 898 was compatible with the Navionics Platinum and the 798 was not. Just wondering if I should go ahead and upgrade the front unit to run the platinum over having to buy 2 chips. Thanks..
Caldwellj wrote: Mach,If I understand correctly you want to run Down imaging off your US2 puck on the Minn Kota trolling motor?? You can not run DI off the US2 because it is only a 200Khz or 200Khz/83Khz (Duel Beam Plus) transducer.http://www.minnkotamotors.com/advantage … ectionID=4I suggest you use the transducer you will get with the 798 and mount it to the foot of the trolling motor so you have SI/DI at the bow and are reading from a transducer at the trolling motor.Here is a link to the Transducer that comes with the 798sihttp://store.humminbird.com/products/31 … 06bc4e8eeaHope this answered your questionsJameyGood idea Jamey. Whats your thoughts on the 2 898s as asked above. Thanks for all the input!!
You will still have to buy two chips..one for each unit. My reccomendation is to buy the largest units you can afford.
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