Here’s one we pasted from another board and thought it might fit in to this topic. It relates to fuel gauge accuracy.
BCB
Since you have a warning light these are not Analog gauges. Analog gauges are only as good as the sending unit. Of course since this is a relatively new 2014 we would assume that it’s an issue from day one. Lot’s of people think they understand the sending units because they worked on one years ago, though they are quite different on todays boats. Ours always were years ago with the capsule style Rochester senders, though todays are even more improved. There were a few of the varying brands of pivot arms sending units we used that realistically are not very good. Those were usually on lesser boat with less component costs. Just a few bucks here and there saved on a less price tagged unit makes a difference overall.
Today they are all WEMA senders at this time, as we use the WEMA sending unit and have for a decade. These are extremely reliable and generally very accurate as they use a donut float on a straight shaft and no arm. They send a signal to the gauge through an analog signal and the conversion takes over for your digital gauge through hexadecimal conversion.
The issue is not the gauge as those are a programmed function, thus it has to be the sending unit itself, or the wrong length of sending unit was installed by mistake in your fuel tank.
Figure out how or if you want to address this and then either yourself or through your dealership we would be glad to provide another sending unit. You can test those outside the boat with the wiring for accuracy before installing or even breaking down the existing sending unit. IN a few minutes you would have an idea of what or if to tackle it.
Of course we would usually have a dealership remove the sending unit and verify the stages on the stem that the gauge was activated before replacing one, which you could do also if the sending unit is in an area where you can remove it.
We hope this one was helpful.
BCB
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