I wanted to share my lessons learned installing the kit for a removable console on a 2012 Eyra. I ran into a couple of unexpected problems, but now that it’s done, NO REGRETS and love the design and fit by BCB. Would be much easier to do a second time for sure. Hopefully this will help you should you try.
NOTE: Before you place an order (because it is very expensive), please consult with BCB as there will surely be some minor differences between other premium models. I tried the owner’s board and my closest dealer and could find no one who had tried this specifically on an Eyra after delivery from factory. I was cautious due to the much smaller lip on the Eyra than Puma/Courgar FTDs and what I thought to be smaller room for error on trying this at home.
Special thanks to Alan in Parts and Lance from the factory who gave me some key advice prior to starting the install. Also major THANK YOU to “Shap from La” for photos and videos of his factory installed version and “dragging jigs” for the extra set of hands/labor and advice.
BEFORE YOU ORDER: Even if you find that you have a premium model that is compatible with the removable console kit, you must be aware that not until somewhere in the later 2012 models did the factory start lowering the rear rod holder placement to allow enough room to receive the kit (per conversation with Lance at the factory). This older post alludes to it, but was not clear to me until I started cutting.
http://basscatowners.yuku.com/reply/166 ... ply-166190
Make sure you measure the clearance from the top of your rear rod shelf to the lowest point above it. You will need at least 2.25”-2.5” of clearance or you will have to modify your rod shelf like I did in the steps that follow.
click thumbnails to expand-full photos are in my profile under album=console.
Contents-when you receive your removable console you will also receive a decal and windshield (uninstalled) and hardware for locking cams to secure the console. Additionally, you will get an access plate cover (not pictured) to use should you need to cut a hole in the gunwale to access the rear side to secure your side hardware. I simply removed my speaker and used that hole (SEE STEP 5). If you don’t have a speaker, you may need to cut a 4” access hole. Key installation hardware consists of: (not BCB nomenclature-but pictured below L to R)
a. 3 x female threaded backs
b. 3 x male threaded receivers
c. 3 x face plates (w/ 6 x #2 square drive screws not pictured)
d. 3 x rubber inserts (cover the holes when console removed)
e. 3 x SS threaded custom bolts
f. 3 x fender washers
g. 3 x aluminum cams
h. 3 x brass barrel nuts (already inserted into cams in this photo)
2 Tools used-3/8” cordless drill, Dremel with cutting stone, #2 square bit driver, bi-metal 2” hole saw, and 1/8” bit for pilot holes.
3.
STEP 1: Dry Fit the console in place and mark the two forward holes that will go into the rod locker and the one side hole that will go into the gunwale. On the side hole, make sure you mark towards the back of the slotted hole. This will allow the console to slide back during removal. I used a fine point sharpie, but you could also use the 1/8” drill bit to score it. Take care to make sure the bottom of the console fits on the lip in the front and the side is at the level you want. Two people are best here. Measured multiple times before first hole drilled. While there are some adjustments you can make later, marking these holes is probably the MOST important step/measurement in the process.
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STEP 2: Remove the console and locate your marks. KEY STEP: Before you start drilling your pilot hole, you must adjust your starting spot by measuring 3/16” below your marks. The reason for this is while you initially marked center for the holes in the console, the actual location of the threaded bolts is not dead center of the male threaded receiver. I would have NEVER caught this without the advice from Lance at the factory. See photos below
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STEP 3: Once you are satisfied that you have properly located your marks (3/16” below those from console dry fit), you are ready to simply drill your pilot holes. Once done, then you can take a deep breath and use your bi-metal 2” hole saw. Just go slow and let the blade do the work. No so bad if you ignore the sounds! I started cutting the inboard hole first and to my surprise, I saw the back of the rod shelf bisecting the 2” hole I had just cut. Now I understood the relevance of the post from BCB about “the relief you will need above the rod shelf.” I’m thinking CRAPTASTIC (using K-Pink voice) at this point. I now have a 2”hole and no way to lower the rod shelf as it is glassed in. It’s the weekend and no way to call Lance so I decided to drive on.
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STEP 4: IF YOU FIND YOU HAVE CLEARANCE THEN YOU CAN SKIP TO STEP 5. Now I have the added step to make room for the female threaded back to fit in the rod locker.
a. Pull back the carpet; mark an area large enough to be able to slip your threaded back into place. I used a dremel tool with cutting stone to slowly grind away the fiberglass. Take your time as you can easily grind away too much. Use a shop vac to suck up the dust as there will be a lot! Depending on the room you have, you may also have to cut down the lip on the back of the female threaded back as well. It will be a tight fit, but it will work.
b. Once done, clean up your area and insert your hardware for fit. Place female threaded back in place and from the front, simply thread in the male piece. Go ahead and tighten down as you may find that additional adjustments to the back are needed to get the hole lined up properly to receive the threaded bolt.
c. Repeat the same process for the outboard hole on the rod locker. NOTE: this side had an additional twist. You will find that in addition to the rod shelf, the outboard side is over the passenger rod holder and BCB also glassed in a box for this. Just means you may have to grind away a little more glass, but no load bearing pieces are affected.
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STEP 5: Now move to the gunwale location. This was by far the easiest of all. Since I already had a hole for the factory speaker, I did not have to cut a 4” access hole. I removed the speaker so I could stick my hand/arm into the gunwale when needed. Again, find your mark, measure 3/16” below and then drill your pilot hole. Then make your 2” hole cut. Access the rear of the hole through the speaker hole (or your access hole or you may be able to reach it through the rod locker if you are skinny enough). Place the threaded female back in place, screw in the male piece, and tighten to line up slot to receive the threaded bolt at the level. You can now place the faceplates and rubber covers on. NOTE: The screws that hold on the faceplate will hit your gel coat. I drilled pilot holes for this and chamfered as a precaution. This is what it will look like when done:
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STEP 6: Now you are ready to install the console and make any adjustments for snug fit. Best to have some help here. With your receivers in place, install the threaded bolts. Simply insert the tabbed end of bolts into the hole in the receiver and pull down and out until it clicks and seats perpendicular to the receiver. Should look like the picture above. Install console onto the two rod locker receivers and the one side gunwale receiver and slide forward. Place the fender washers on and thread the cam with threaded barrel nuts in place. Tighten the two forward cams first, then the gunwale and check your fitment. At this point, I found that I had to make some minor adjustments to the console itself to achieve a snug fit.
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STEP 7: Fitment and adjustments-when I tightened everything down, I found (due to my lack of precision) that the front of the console still had a gap of about 1/8” from fitting flush against the back of the rod locker and side of the gunwale. If I tried to tighten the gunwale side, it would cause the inboard cam to bind and pull further away. What I found was that the bottom of the console was barely over the lip of the rod box vs sitting on the lip. Back to the dremel tool and simply grind it down to achieve the perfect fit. You may also find that if your pilot holes were off a little that the bolts may bind to fit through the holes. Again, you can make minor adjustments by using a round file to increase the radius of the holes (file laterally and NOT vertically) in your console slightly to relieve the pressure. I only had to make minor cuts of 1/8” or less to get the fit right. I confirmed with Lance that this will not affect the performance or security of the console. Once you get the alignment and adjustments made, you will find that between the smooth contact points of console to boat and the tightness of the 3 locking cams, your new removable console is as solid as the bolted on drivers console.
Final thoughts and tips:
- No regrets now that it’s done. Finished product is worth the stress and experiential learning required the first time. Hopefully this helps someone else get past that.
- Certainly could have let my closest dealer do this install, but when I considered 1.5 hour drive each way, time, gas, and ~$100+/hour for labor, I figured I saved myself at least $300-500. This is on top of the purchase & shipping price of the console and kit, which will get cost a little over $1300. Certainly cheaper to go with a permanent install, but I wanted the option to remove. You’ll have to determine if its worth your time and expense.
- Go slow, don’t get frustrated and prepare yourself to make adjustments to the kit, the console, and your boat if it’s an older model with the higher rod shelf.
- Wear a mask or better yet, use shop vac to keep the fiberglass dust down and clean as you go.
- Have a buddy to help and save the adult beverages until after complete…which was hard to do!
· If anyone has any questions please don’t hesitate to IM me and I’ll be glad to send additional photos or answer your questions. Better yet, call Lance or speak to anyone on the floor they are professionals at this. Good luck!
Bill
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