Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › Last 2-3 mph on my Sabre
Looking for the last 2-3 mph on my 06 Sabre. Running a 150 Opti with a 23p Tempest. At WOT Im getting 61 (GPS) and only 5380 RPM. Manual jackplate and prop set 3.75 below the pad. I think there is some more RPMs there but the boat wants to walk enough to cause me to back it down right at 61. I have tried to educate myself on how to deal with the walking and really did not expect it at that speed. Are my skills just that bad? I am trimming in small increments trying to catch the walking before it starts and using the techniques that have been decsribed here before. More seat time?Thoughts??
Yes some is seat time, and you may be too low also. The best explanation we can give is the left hand scenario. ALWAYS, always try to keep the nose to the left of center. It should never pass to the right of center as the nose moves. That means you should try to catch the nose before it pivots back to the right. Eventually you will have a very subtle hand pressure to the left, which you will not even realize you are holding that pressure. The left one handed driving is easiest to learn. Two hands tend to fight each other. Hold both hands in the air at the 10 and 2 positions, now try to move them at the exact same time. Very few can. The single left hand can feel a slight pressure from the propeller as it loads in the swing. Then you eventually will be able to tell. We liken the swing of the nose to a pendulum or metronome (tempo gauge) and as the nose swings to the right, never let it get past mid point of that swing. Keeping all bow movement in the left half. Do try raising that propeller to eliminate any belly walking you may have. You may try a half inch or so, and if you gain wheel torque, drop it back down. It may all be learning, and until you learn to let it rip, or put someone behind it that can, you may not be able to set it up yet. Hope this helps you out some! BCBThis is another simple explanation from an outside web site. Perhaps this will help also? “Wait a minute! How DO I drive it?” The generic answer is “small helm corrections to port as required”. Not really a definitive answer, is it? No one can TELL you how to drive YOUR boat. I know its frustrating and you get tired of hearing or reading “seat time”. Although you will pick up pointers, even “show and tell” with an experienced driver at the helm and you as observer will not be enough. The corrections become so nearly automatic that its hard to communicate “why” I did that or “when” to do it. Overcorrection to port throws the hull past centerline and it tries to fall to port. Under correction to port allows the hull to continue to fall to starboard and requires additional correction to port, often resulting in overcorrection. Each under or overcorrection requires a larger correction to compensate and, if that correction is too much or too little, the oscillation increases. This is the beginning of chinewalk, the time to ease out of the throttle and start over BEFORE it becomes dangerous.You CAN do it! You must set aside on the water time to concentrate on your driving skills just as you would learning a new fishing technique.
Thanks for the suggestions. If I could just get my priorities straight and go to the lake this morning instead of this job, I could probably take care of this by noon!
Milt, for a comparrison I have a 07 Sabre FTD, 150 opti,6″(i think) slidemaster jackplate and 23 tempest. Set up has not been changed from BCB rigging. They may be able to advise of motor heights and size of plate. I see post of 68mph but I dont get that unless you look at speedo. On GPS Im at 60/61 mph @ 5700/5750 rpm, thats all it will turn. This is full fuel, medium load with one 200# person. I have no problem with the boat walking at any trim level. May be a little loose but nothing to be alarmed about. I may get 2 or 3 mph with different set up, but is it worth a day changing props, plate heights etc, $100.00 gas and $400.00-$800.00 for new prop. How much time will you save on an average day of fishing with a gain of 2mph on an average day of say 50 miles. OT57 can/will advise us. I can tell you the SabreFTD fishes much bigger than any 18 boat. In fact a fisherman on a dock ask me if that was a 20 or 21 boat, he would not accept 18 as my answer. Any way BCB is the way to go for best product and customer service.Mackey
Once you learn how to drive the speed automatically picks up. You probably wont have to do a thing to gain 2,3, or even as much as 5 mph other than to learn to drive. Once you learn to drive, its second nature as BCB has stated. Movements with the steering wheel or ever so slight that it doesnt even take any effort! Good luck and hope you get it down soon!
Logan Martin, we dont think most Sabre FTD Models will run much over the 65 mark at best. The older XR-6 was a stronger motor than your 150 Opti and the EFI is also weaker. We dont want to over emphasize speed, so we say from lower 60s to possible mid 60s, which with some set up is quite possible. It will gain more in the mid range on fuel improvements than on top end with a better set up. You can gain up to 1/2 MPG on a good set up. BCB
Logan Martin, how you like your Sabre FTD. Think I am going to order one this winter. Have been torn b/w classic and sabre ftd, but think I have finally decided to go with the sabre ftd. The deck on the front of that thing is awesome. What is it that you like and dont like about the sabre ftd. Some one made a good point on another board I was watching, it has not been that long ago when all pros were running 150s. I wont be running huge water, so I think this will make it even necessary for the classic. One question I do have is I thought tandem trailers were standard with the Sabre FTD, but looking at MikeNs on another board, it appeared as he only had a single axle trailer. Thanks.-Lee
lreddmann, I wouldnt hesitate to buy that Sabre FTD. As I stated mine is an 06 so the Sabre FTD was not available, otherwise… I know most love the speed of the larger boats and on bigger water Im sure I would want something larger too, but I find the 150 to be plenty and the fuel economy you will love. Mine fishes great and the FTD probably that much better. I do love my dual axle trailer if for no other reason than appearance.. I guess you need to be concerned about re-sale if you have too much in an 18ft boat but if you plan to keep it,go for it! Put me down as satisfied…
Lee, I am well pleased with my Sabre. I get upset when it is refered to as an “entry level boat”. My entry level was a 14 flat bottom with a 10horse super 10 wizard. First up grade was 14 Fisher Marine with 20 HP Evinrude and stick sterring, man was I hot stuff on the Coosa River. I guess I have told you how old I am so back to the Sabre. It is far from entry level, lots of people are like me and dont need a big boat. I fish mostly flipping docks and shallow trash, with a 21 boat it is much harder keep the boat at the proper distance from your object. The Sabre is a drier ride in rough water especially when making a turn. All hatches are completly dry except the battery storage. Both rod lockers will hold 7 rods. The FTD deck has more dry storage than you could ever need. Built in ice chest kept ice on the 105 degree days we had this summer. So many postives I cant list them all here. I cruise at about 4500rpm and fuel economy is unbeliveable compared to XR6s and EFIs. Buy it you will love it.MackeyLee, if you are around central Alabama I will be glad to give you a ride, might even let you drive.
The Sabre is not an Entry Level boat in comparison to other brands, which truly have entry levels. It is an affordable package that in the more tournament oriented days, the boats which would compare to a Sabre FTD today, were used heavily in BASS by some good sticks. Back in the days, Robert Tucker and others preferred the 18 boats, even going to Lake Ontario.BCB
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