Master power switch/power pole voltage issue

[JamieB]

I have a new to me 2017 Eyra. I had the dealer install 2 Garmin 126’s at the console and 2 at the bow. From what I can tell, the only thing connected to the master power switch in the bilge is the power poles. When attempting to deploy the power poles, the port side deploys fine, the starboard side deploys a few inches, pauses, deploys a few more inches, pauses. During deployment, one of my graphs starts dropping voltage. It reads around 12.6 then decreases to 9v while the power poles are being deployed. It appears the pp wires run directly to my brand new cranking battery. All other graphs read 13+ volts and are not affected. I looked at the switch and the bottom two spades are 1. Power wire from the battery and 2. Red wires from the power poles. The confusing part is a grey wire connected to the top spade connection. I contacted power pole support and they requested I purchase a new circuit board for the starboard pump. So I did and the problem persists. I also changed the fluid; no help. Obviously it’s a wiring issue somewhere but have no clue where to look. Any suggestions as to where to begin? I attached a pic of the switch.

 

[Bass Cat Boats]

You need some help on this. That wired will not support those graphs and you should have a separate loom on a 2017 model, just for the charts. Also, the battery voltage dropping can be from several sources.

[JamieB]

This is the confusing part. The graphs are wired separately, not on this switch. They are connected directly to the battery. Only one graph is affected during pp operation. Do you have any clue what the grey wire on the switch is used for?

thank you so much for the reply.

[SLumpp]

JaimeB, I have a 2017 Cougar AE.  I also have power poles, 2 graphs in the front (10″ Garmins), 1 12″ Garmin at the console, livescope and the Garmin Hub.  I ran 10 gauge TINN wire from the back of the boat to the front and put all of my electronics on a separate fuse panel to include the livescope and the hub.  I also separately switched my garmin trolling motor foot control, and livescope so I know that they have no power running to them when I shut them off (parasitic drain).  I would start with a volt meter at the battery, (while either you are at home or make a trip to the lake specifically to check the electronics drain), disconnect all power leads to the graphs and run the poles up and down to see what the voltage is. You can disconnect the graphs simply by unplugging them at the back of each graph.   At the back of the rocker switch at the bilge area to turn on power for the poles make sure that the  connections going to that switch are good.  Both poles should go through that switch and it almost sounds like if they are crimped together that the connection for the hot on both poles has been compromised in some way.  Another way to check it would be to probe both hot wires when you cycle the pumps up and down to see what you have for voltage on both leads going to the pumps, they both should mirror each other.  The rocker switch should illuminate when you turn on the poles and you should hear a tone coming from the pumps that indicate they are ready to go.  The black wire should be a ground wire to complete a circuit for the light on the switch.

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