Need Help! Access hatch under TM as an option?

Has anyone installed an access hatch/plate under their trolling motor foot pedal "after market?" I know on some models with factory installed RAM mounts in the bow recess, BCB will cut an access hatch and cover it with the same plate for passenger consoles (BCB-please correct me if this is wrong).Trying to get an idea of the diameter of the hole, the diameter of the cover, best way to cut and how hard of an install this would be.Reason I ask, I was helping a fellow member install a 958 and RAM on his 2010 P II. Opted bolt through vs screw in option. Read several posts on here how other members were able to access through starboard rod locker to put fender washers and nylock nuts. Sounded and looked easy enough from the great posts and pictures.... Well, let me tell you...there is a lot less room in the rod locker and clearance below the deck and recess in a P II compared to a Puma/Cougar (which was what most of the posts cited). We were able to get 2 ea 5/16-18x2 bolts with washers/nuts on after much contortion, extensions, and effort, but cannot get to the 3d due to slight bend and lack of space and no visual! Even had my daughter try and crawl up there, but think we need an infant to fit . May buy a cheap endoscope just so I can see what we are trying to do.Considering adding the access under TM if not too difficult and will allow for future "re-tightening" if needed. Thanks in advance!Last edited by HSVBCB on March 4th, 2013, 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 2 months ago by Bass Cat Boats.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

Author

Posts
March 5, 2013 at 12:28 am #424402

PhilAddison
Participant

I would think the two bolts that you have installed would be enough to support the two screws! I would leave as is.

March 5, 2013 at 12:50 am #424403

schodackbassman
Participant

That glass is pretty thick up there so 2 bolts may do. I helped with one of those installs on the Puma, it was not easy. The young man who got up in the locker was pretty slim, he had long arms, and it still took some tool extension/modifications to get nuts/washers on all the bolts. It wasnt a lot of fun.

March 5, 2013 at 2:22 am #424404

croix24
Participant

I am in the same boat as your buddy. I have a 2010 PII and am installing a humminbird 958 up on the bow using a ram mount. I did the same exact thing that you did – read a lot of stuff here about bolting the ram mount ball in the well up front. I took a flashlight and looked up the rod box, could easily see the bottom of the well and thought “no problem, that will be easy to reach up there”. Well, I drilled the holes for the bolts, crawled in the rod locker and realized reaching up there was not going to happen.I bit the bullet and drilled a 4″ hole right under my trolling motor foot pedal and was able to reach the bolts through that hole pretty easily. I used a 4″ hole saw drill bit. The hole saw bits are not too cheap, but I was able to find a place to rent one for the day. It was not very fun drilling a hole that big in a boat I just purchased last fall, but there was no other way I was getting to the bolts. I called Bass Cat last week and have a plate on its way to cover up the hole.Pretty easy to do, just made me cringe a little bit when drilling the hole…

March 5, 2013 at 2:30 am #424405

HSVBCB
Participant

Thanks all for the replies! Croix24-any tricks to using the hole saw? Did you tape the area then cut to prevent cracks or is that even necessary? The reverse drill technique works as advertised but havent had to use a hole saw to cut on glass yet?

March 5, 2013 at 2:38 am #424406

croix24
Participant

Im quite the novice when it comes to being handy, so I did not tape the area – maybe I should have though. I did not have any issues with the gel coat cracking though. The hole saw worked better than I thought it would on glass. At first I thought it was going to shred up the edges pretty bad, but it was smooth when I was finished.

March 5, 2013 at 2:45 am #424407

HSVBCB
Participant

Good news. Thanks again!

March 5, 2013 at 2:47 am #424408

1958
Participant

It seems like Ive seen where people will run the hole saw/bit (or whatever) backwards at first to keep fiberglass from shredding.

March 5, 2013 at 3:50 am #424409

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

I know that works like a charm with a drill bit. Does same apply for a hole saw? BCB any thoughts?

March 5, 2013 at 1:17 pm #424410

Bass Cat Boats
Keymaster

We dont reverse the hole saw, or drill bits either, in production as it dulls the teeth some and if they are sharp going slow does the same thing. We do counter sink all holes in screw areas to prevent fractures from spreading out when screws are tensioned.
Author

Posts

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic. Login Register