Optimax Motor wont start

[mrbraq]

Interesting..standard premium package, but my starter is Interstate, not Pro-Guide

[Bass Cat Boats]

Then it’s been changed somewhere as all Premium models came standard with the Pro Guide which is a private labeled import of high quality.

[shermsmarine]

Ben Your boat is not a premium model it’s a Sabre FTD Advantage and BCB doesn’t install crank batteries in them and I have been installing the Interstate 31MHD in them for many years with very minimal issues at all going back to way before BCB started installing the Pro Guide. Yes it still has warranty and any Interstate dealer should be able to replace it if needed. The Interstate is much easier to find dealers for compared to most of the others mentioned here. I’ll be happy to take care of it if you want to bring it back here..     Sherm

[mrbraq]

I took the battery to a local Interstate dealer. Interstate took the 31-MHD battery for testing to see if it qualified for being covered under warranty. They said it was severely depleted (but not bad) and questioned if my boat was capable of charging it. Seems odd unless the marina that said the battery was bad didn’t charge it before testing it. They’ve recharged it and plan to return it early next week, but I’m guessing I’ll eventually run into the same problem if I put it back in the boat.

2 questions:

1. What battery does BCB recommend for 2018 Sabre starters for a 150 Optimax with 2x Helix 10s? If a Pro-Guide, what model/size?
2. Is there any validity to Interstate’s assumption that my boat might not be capable of charging an Interstate 31-MHD?

[oldtimer57]

ought to be able to charge it unless you have an alternator problem.  Easiest test is to measure voltage at battery before cranking, then repeat after cranking.  Before cranking you should be in the 12.6+ range.  While the motor is running you ought to be at 13.5-14.0 depending on the RPM.  If you see the same voltage while engine is running that you saw before cranking, your alternator is not working.

 

[mrbraq]

Interstate returned the battery fully charged and was adamant that the 31-MHD is not the right battery and that this will probably happen again. I intend on trying it again, in hopes that potentially I never got a full charge from the new outlets on the dock in Canada I was using that were installed while I was there.  I will do some additional testing per everyone’s recommendations (Thanks to all who have responded).

Nonetheless, I’m still hoping Bass Cat Boats can tell me what the recommended starter battery would be for a 2018 Sabre with a 150 Optimax and 2x Helix 10s?

[1stinLA]

I don’t have any idea where your local Interstate battery dealer got his information from, but that battery is more than enough for your setup. We have those batteries at work for starting, and for backup electronics for some industrial units pulling a whole lot more power than an Optimax, or your Helix’s. We sometimes run the electronics for days, and they will still start the 6 cylinder Cummins engines. I have a bigger feeling that you have a charging problem instead.

[mrbraq]

Took the boat out last weekend on a full charge. Used my trolling motor and 2 Helix 10s. Started outboard once to ensure no issues after winterizing but otherwise didnt use it (trolling motor only lake). I put it on the charger last night, and all 3 stations were flashing yellow. I’m flashing green now 24 hours later, still not a full charge. Does that sound bad or potentially as expected?

So now I’m questioning if as others suggested I have a charging or wire gauge issue instead. I dont want to buy another battery if it’s not the issue. Anything else to consider?

I’d take it to the dealer if it weren’t so far from here.

 

[JEH in La]

mrbraq, what charger do you have in the boat? You might have the ProSport 20 Plus charger. If you do, then there is one dedicated cable for the Starting battery and two other cables for your Trolling motor batteries.  Make sure it is wired correctly because that is important.

If you have a volt meter, check your voltage on each battery when it is charging. It should read ~14 Volts DC while charging your batteries.  That should tell you if your charger is doing it’s job.  That’s about all I can think of at this time.

[mrbraq]

Thanks, JEH.

The charger is a Minn Kota Precision MK PC330. It’s fully charged after about an 18 hour charge.

I find it odd that all 3 batteries when charged start (50% flashing yellow) and end (100% solid green) at the same levels.  Forgive my ignorance (first boat w/ no battery wiring knowledge), but I’d expect them to read different levels after being on the water for 2 hours using the trolling motor and graphs, but not the outboard. That leads me to believe that potentially the cranking battery is losing a charge when not in use (or the graphs are draining it)?

I don’t have a volt meter, but will try your suggestion.

[JEH in La]

mrbraq,  This Minn Kota charger is manually selectable for different types of batteries.  Make sure yours is set for the type of batteries that you have.  Still should show ~14 volts DC when charging each battery though. Once charged, you should read ~12.8 volts with the green lights on.

[catdude28]

That flooded commercial battery that Sherm installed is more than adequate for an Opti and accessories. Plenty of cca and RC. However, you mentioned “severely depleted”, so, if you have deeply discharged it several times, then it has potentially lost a lot of capacity. That likely shows up on load testing though. As mentioned, be sure that each bank is correctly set for the type of battery (default is flooded). Be sure that your water levels are adequate. Be sure that your extension cord is in good shape as that charger is sensitive to voltage fluctuation.

Buy a voltmeter. They are easy to use.  Do not rely on voltage readings from your graphs, as there is loss over the wiring, and, in your boat, your graphs run through the boat’s wiring harness. Take readings periodically when charging to verify that your charger is working correctly. During the first bulk stage, you will see the voltage rising to 14.4 eventually. In the second stage of absorption, the voltage will remain constant at 14.4. The yellow lights will indicate progress during the first two stages. In the third stage the voltage will drop back to 13.2 and your batteries are fully charged and ready to use. This is short term maintenance (float) mode. The lights will flash green.  After another 12 hours, the charger will go into long term maintenance and the lights will be solid green.  Any time you put even fully charged batteries on that charger, they will still run through the same stages, but more quickly.  Even if your batteries are on the charger and indicate full charge , then you unplug, and plug back in, they will run through those stages again.

A fully charged wet battery should read about 12.6 volts after unplugging the charger for 12 hours (around 12.8 for an AGM).

I would also be sure to shut the main 25 amp breaker off to prevent any parasitic draw on the crank battery during charging.

I would take the voltmeter on the water and take some measurements of your crank battery at different times during the day.

If you verify that your charger is working properly, you likely have a bad battery. That is a very good charger.  If you want to have peace of mind on the water, and need a new battery, a high quality AGM will be the answer. A Northstar 31 AGM from Batteries Plus is excellent, but expensive.

[mrbraq]

Thanks, catdude. That’s helpful.

I bought a voltmeter, but am not positive I’m using it correctly – I have it set on 12V.

Charging (flashing) – 13.81

Not Charging – 13.47

Car battery – 12.8

How do my numbers and multimeter setting look?  If ok, I was considering trying to test for parasitic draw next via the terminal block.

[JEH in La]

Mrbraq,  to measure DC voltage use the switch position that says ” 10megohm input DCV”.  (red color).  I would think you need to put switch into the “DC ma” position. (blue color) for parasitic draw check because you are looking for a small current reading in milliamps. Careful here because you will have to remove wires for this check so you may want to get some help from someone who is more familiar with that.

The position of the switch as shown is not the right position for what you are looking for.  Take your readings again using the other DCV position that I mentioned first.

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