Trailer wiring driving me nuts!

[apdriver]

Really difficult to diagnose an electrical issue over the net. If it was me, I would start at the tow vehicle plug with a multimeter and make sure I had 12 volts on my right turn pin then start tracing it back to the light. I also had an issue or two on my first BassCat trailer. What has the issue been with the connections coming loose? Overcrimped, undercrimp, inferior butt connectors? Any ideas?

[waknbass15]

Over crimped and too much tension on the connections.

[apdriver]

Thats what I found on a 2009 model. Overcrimped and many strands of copper broken eventually leading to failure of butt connection. Have had no issues on a 2013.

[Redngoo]

I have to agree with apdriver. A good multimeter is a must. Not only for checking voltage but checking continuity as well. I mean a light not burning can only be a few things. Blown light, no voltage , and no ground. I have a line pricker for my meter which allows me to check voltage in various places in the circuit. The best purchace Ive made is a butane soldier torch. I always put little soldier on the skinned wires. This way one is crimping on soldier. Takes a little longer this way but decreases a bad connection tremendously.2013 PANTERA 2MERCURY 200 PRO XSMINNKOTA 80LB FORTREX25 fury

[Jstew]

I was having very similar issues with my 08. Every other month, there were broken connections, loose wires, and lights not working. A couple of years ago, I purchased all LED clearance lamps & tail lights and went to work. First thing was to get rid of all crimp connectors. All connections are now soldered with glue lined heat shrink for waterproof connections. The marine heat shrink is available at Harbor Freight in a large assortment for about $6. In an evening – I replaced every crimp and had a waterproof solid wiring system. Ive not had my first issue with it since. The key issue is to leave the wiring with a little “room” so as not to stress the connections.

[waknbass15]

Thats exactly what I started doing last night. Going to use the marine grade connectors that have the heat shrink built in to them.

[Cajunhunter67]

First check and make sure you dont have a burnt fuse. I had a Ford truck that had fuses for the trailer connector and it was separated for turn signals. So check at your trailer plug whether your getting power, than move further back. Once you find the problem, fix it, but better than it was. Always twist your wire tight before crimping. There also connectors that are available that after crimping, you heat it. It shrinks and releases a sealing compound, sealing the wires from moisture. I use those.

[Jstew]

waknbass15 wrote:Thats exactly what I started doing last night. Going to use the marine grade connectors that have the heat shrink built in to them.Instead of any crimp connectors – go for the soldered connections with shrink wrap. Regardless of marine grade connectors – its still a crimp connector. About 1/2″ of soldered wire with a waterproof shrink wrap coating is more permanent and less likely to give issues at a later time.

[apdriver]

I know many people think a soldered connection is more permanent than a butt splice, but many years ago when I was in the service doing electrical work, it was considered a temporary fix. Consider this. A soldered joint adds a stiff part to your multi-strand wire. Add vibration, as in a boat trailer on our best back country roads, and its a fail point where the solder meets the copper. Fatigue, over time will break it. Not something I made up.

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