You are not looking at the structural design correctly. Whether you support at the lower unit, or 6″ higher at the lower motor mount bolt heads, you are still supporting the same structure. The CRITICAL point is that the other end attaches to the trailer. Now the motor is supported at two points to prevent movement. One is the swivel bracket attached to the transom. The other is the Lous going from bottom end of motor to trailer. The final key part is the tie-down straps that lock the boat to the trailer. The “truss” I was talking about.It is not about the point where the support contacts the motor. It is about the point where the OTHER end rests. You do NOT want this contact point to be the swivel bracket. Now you have no truss and those “transom savers” that attack to the swivel bracket offer no support beyond what the hydraulic trim system offers. You are taking a little load off of the hydraulics, but they dont notice that trifling load compared to what they see at WOT.The only benefit of the Lous over the traditional lower unit attachment is that it is (a) easier to install since it simply captures the two lower MM bolts; (b) since it is supporting the motor on both sides, the motor wont tend to turn to one side or the other under tow. And YES, hydraulic steering will slowly leak and allow this, even brand new. Otherwise you could use a normal steering wheel and not have it slowly rotate to the left or right so that it is no longer centered after a trip or two. I elected to go the cheaper route and stick with my motor toter, and use the TH Marine steering clips to keep the motor centered on the hydraulic steering ram. I did sand down the rubber pads about 1/2 way and use a small piece of BCB 24 oz carpet, contact-glued to them, so that I dont get the lower unit scuffing any longer where the pads rest on the L/U paint.2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200