Home › Forums › Bass Cat Boats › which prop on 23 bobcat
Wheelman:
lfgray:
Wheelman:
lfgray:
So with all the information that is provided and knowing nothing about what prop is best for my situation, i have been thinking about a 22p tempest or the like. What am i going to gain by getting a 22p( say tempest )vs. the 24p 4 blade trophy i am currently using . I guess i am thinking about a 22p because people are saying it is working out for them, plus the dealer and bcb has tried it out with success. What am i to gain, more speed with less rpm ? less chine walk? (I’ll go for that). Not having to wot to get more? better hole shot? please note that i don’t carry a bunch of tackle,rods and reels , extra stuff that is not essential. Also i don’t tournament fish and 98% of the time i fish alone and the live wells are empty most times. Thanks for the help
Every set up is slightly different, fyi I run a Sabre FTD DC with standard 150hp 4-stroke Merc that has taller gearing and a lower rpm limit with a Motorguide up front. That being said I’ve run a 24” Tempest that originally came with the boat to 65mph, 24” Fury to 65.9, 24” Trophy to 65, 25” Tempest to 66 and 25” Fury to 66.6. I’ve ran 1/4” below flush to 1/2” above on the jackplate, don’t have low water pickups like the Pro XS so have to watch water psi more closely. You can vary the PVS plugs in all the props to fine tune holeshot and I run an exhaust ring on the Trophy. It has the most lift, but is the slowest. The Fury has the least lift, but is the fastest. The Tempest has good lift and speed, so would choose it as the best all around. Though going down 2 pitches I don’t think is a good idea if the 24” Trophy is running at max rpms when solo in good air. I look for a prop that just kisses the limiter in those conditions, that way it is still in the powerband when you have a partner and it’s warmer out otherwise you’ll want to step down a pitch for Summer when loaded with your back up prop.
This is good information and helping me and others learn Thanks
You’re welcome, one other thing I’ll mention as it’s different than most other outboards on a boat that’ll do this kind of speed which most don’t realize as they haven’t driven one is the 150 4-stroke Merc uses a single ram, so it trims very fast all the way through it’s range unlike traditional dual ram systems which have a trim and tilt range. This means you have to be very conscious of over trimming too quickly. Since you have low water pickups you probably aren’t having to watch water psi like I am, but when you get it to the point of getting on final pad you’re just flicking the switch as it changes so fast. Always trim down first before coming off the throttle if it’s chine walking and starts to get out of your control as otherwise it can hook on you, but one of the benefits of the fast trim is you can set the boat down very quickly if needed. The trim really is the throttle from 45-65mph in these smaller boats that need the aerodynamic help to air them out.
wheelman your information is invaluable to someone like me. Your experience obviously has taken time to acquire. After reading the answers provided by everyone i ask myself what am i looking for. with my current prop and ptp of 31/2″ the boat will get up from the hole quick enough, the boat no longer has a large rooster tail since i lowered the motor a 1/4″ and i can get the boat on pad and find the 6000 rpm. My problem is that to get there i have to get the trim where the chine walk is unmanageable. I am not able to bump the steering wheel to keep the boat steady i have to bump the trim down to get the boat to settle down thereby i lose my speed of 59/60 mph. I am not looking for a fast boat, but i do want to know that if i want to go 60+ i can do it. I am happy with going 50mph but as of now it takes 5100/5200 rpm to achieve that. Maybe thats normal i dont have the expertise to know. After reading all the information from you and bcb i am thinking my plan is to continue to play with the ptp, bumping the trim and see if i can learn. I have heard that lowering the ptp causes mph loss so not sure if i want to go down anymore.
One last thing, I don’t know what part of the country your in,But if i were your neighbor you would probably want to move Ha
wheelman your information is invaluable to someone like me. Your experience obviously has taken time to acquire. After reading the answers provided by everyone i ask myself what am i looking for. with my current prop and ptp of 31/2″ the boat will get up from the hole quick enough, the boat no longer has a large rooster tail since i lowered the motor a 1/4″ and i can get the boat on pad and find the 6000 rpm. My problem is that to get there i have to get the trim where the chine walk is unmanageable. I am not able to bump the steering wheel to keep the boat steady i have to bump the trim down to get the boat to settle down thereby i lose my speed of 59/60 mph. I am not looking for a fast boat, but i do want to know that if i want to go 60+ i can do it. I am happy with going 50mph but as of now it takes 5100/5200 rpm to achieve that. Maybe thats normal i dont have the expertise to know. After reading all the information from you and bcb i am thinking my plan is to continue to play with the ptp, bumping the trim and see if i can learn. I have heard that lowering the ptp causes mph loss so not sure if i want to go down anymore. One last thing, I don’t know what part of the country your in, But if i were your neighbor you would probably want to move Ha
You’re welcome, 50 mph and 5100-5200 rpm seems normal. The downside of lowering the engine is you have more hydrodynamic drag. Again to really dial in a boat it takes trial and error, I personally like to tinker with things and how/why things work. I’ve never driven a Bobcat, but it’s similar in weight and shorter so I’d think it’d easily run 60+ when solo with a 150 Pro XS as my Sabre does with a regular 150 4-stroke that makes 5hp less. As far as controlling chine walk, that takes practice though mine typically doesn’t really start till around 63mph. I’ve ran for over 10 miles at 60+ with a passenger from one fork of the lake to the other so it included turning, the trim controls the speed once on the final pad around 50 as it dictates how much lifting of the hull happens to pack air though then it becomes a balancing act of the boat trying to teeter because of the torque of the prop rotation to the right so you’re counter steering to the left to offset it.
Not sure if these help, but here’s some video I took while messing around.
Wheelman:
lfgray:
Wheelman:
lfgray:
So with all the information that is provided and knowing nothing about what prop is best for my situation, i have been thinking about a 22p tempest or the like. What am i going to gain by getting a 22p( say tempest )vs. the 24p 4 blade trophy i am currently using . I guess i am thinking about a 22p because people are saying it is working out for them, plus the dealer and bcb has tried it out with success. What am i to gain, more speed with less rpm ? less chine walk? (I’ll go for that). Not having to wot to get more? better hole shot? please note that i don’t carry a bunch of tackle,rods and reels , extra stuff that is not essential. Also i don’t tournament fish and 98% of the time i fish alone and the live wells are empty most times. Thanks for the help
Every set up is slightly different, fyi I run a Sabre FTD DC with standard 150hp 4-stroke Merc that has taller gearing and a lower rpm limit with a Motorguide up front. That being said I’ve run a 24” Tempest that originally came with the boat to 65mph, 24” Fury to 65.9, 24” Trophy to 65, 25” Tempest to 66 and 25” Fury to 66.6. I’ve ran 1/4” below flush to 1/2” above on the jackplate, don’t have low water pickups like the Pro XS so have to watch water psi more closely. You can vary the PVS plugs in all the props to fine tune holeshot and I run an exhaust ring on the Trophy. It has the most lift, but is the slowest. The Fury has the least lift, but is the fastest. The Tempest has good lift and speed, so would choose it as the best all around. Though going down 2 pitches I don’t think is a good idea if the 24” Trophy is running at max rpms when solo in good air. I look for a prop that just kisses the limiter in those conditions, that way it is still in the powerband when you have a partner and it’s warmer out otherwise you’ll want to step down a pitch for Summer when loaded with your back up prop.
This is good information and helping me and others learn Thanks
You’re welcome, one other thing I’ll mention as it’s different than most other outboards on a boat that’ll do this kind of speed which most don’t realize as they haven’t driven one is the 150 4-stroke Merc uses a single ram, so it trims very fast all the way through it’s range unlike traditional dual ram systems which have a trim and tilt range. This means you have to be very conscious of over trimming too quickly. Since you have low water pickups you probably aren’t having to watch water psi like I am, but when you get it to the point of getting on final pad you’re just flicking the switch as it changes so fast. Always trim down first before coming off the throttle if it’s chine walking and starts to get out of your control as otherwise it can hook on you, but one of the benefits of the fast trim is you can set the boat down very quickly if needed. The trim really is the throttle from 45-65mph in these smaller boats that need the aerodynamic help to air them out.
The last few days i’ve been learning to drive the boat, something i thought i knew all about. its a whole new ballgame when you have a new boat instead of one that is all set up when you buy used. As of today i can get to 58-59mph at 5900 rpm’s then the chine walk starts. I am currently just using the trim to stop the walk once it starts. Soon i well try using the wheel in small steps to try and keep it from getting out of hand. An article by j todd on bcb forums (chine walk- learning to control it) is an excellent learning tool.
What i would like to try first is a tempest maybe a 24p or 25p. if that doesn’t work then i can try a 22p fury as bcb suggested. I’ve read that some are having good luck with the tempest 24p/25p prop. The more i read the more confusing it gets. One article says a 22p is better and another says a 24p/25p is better. Then you get into the whole 3 blade four blade thing .
perhaps i should just give my current prop and myself more time to see if i can get the speed up.
What i would like to do is get more speed with less rpm, I don’t like going wot and 6,000rpm even if mercury says its ok. I would like my speed to be 60+ and under 6,000 rpm If it chine walks i believe i can learn to control it with seat time. I also believe i’ve got the height dialed in as well as the weight distributed as good as i can . Is it possible to get more speed with less rpm? is that all in the correct prop? thanks
Think of the prop pitch as the tire diameter, play with the link below based on your results and what prop you want to try then I think you’ll have a better idea. If you’ve got the weight distributed how you want it, then you can run a taller pitch prop to lower rpms though keep in mind you don’t want to be outside of the powerband at WOT and you’ll make your holeshot worse along with planing speed higher. Now if you make a lot of long distance runs I could see doing it for fuel economy, otherwise prop it to kiss the limiter when it’s cold and light as it’ll then run a little slower/lower rpm when it’s hot and loaded.
https://www.mercuryracing.com/propellers-overview/prop-slip-calculator.html
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