Heres a few ideas – You should probably be running a 24 or 25″ trophy with your set-up, not 26″ cause the 99 optis were a little weak. You say the prop is blowing out. If it is a small hub prop, you can try a cavitation ring. I assume the prop does not have adjustable rubber plugs on the side cause you would know it was a Trophy PVS. Other than the ring, lower the jack plate a little. New prop or re-working yours are the only other options. Good luck!
I know exactly what you are dealing with. Lowering the plate about an inch or two should fix it and make sure the motor is completely tucked under when you are running a heavy load. It might also help to feather the throttle a little as the bow starts to drop. It will take a few turns to learn how much to back off the throttle to still get the bow to drop but not break the prop loose. BTW – I am almost positive that your prop is a trophy PVS if it has the rubber plugs at the leading edge of the blades. It was probably re-finished and polished which removes most of the markings on the prop. You should still be able to see the model number stamped on the side of the tube. The last two numbers is the pitch. Depending on who refinished the prop, they may have hurt the load carrying capacity that Trophies are known for. I would try to find a 24 or 25 unworked Trophy to see if there is a big improvement.
First of all, if the prop doesnt have major dings, clean up the edges with sand paper – do not use a file! Next, adjust your current set-up for the best performance. My suggestion is to measure prop to pad and start at 3.5″s below and slowly increase 1/4″ at a time until you 1) hit the max RPM, 2)lose speed/gain RPMs or 3)lose water pressure. After this, come back with your #s and you can get a better recommendation.
The 25 tempest should increase your RPMs even more. My suggestion would be to have one or both of your props reworked to reduce RPMs. A good prop guy could take off 2-300rpms and you should still have your hole shot/mid-range. A good worked prop will be much more efficient with prop slip as well. I have only worked with John Janaky at DAH and the results were exceptional for the costs. Boger props is supposed to be top rate as well, but more expensive also. You will be happier with a custom worked prop. Keep that motor around 6000rpms top end and you will be happy with the results!
From reading this board, I am guessing a Fish & Ski is the new boat. It would probably be built on the Piv hull to be a quick planing, flat riding dual purpose (family & fishing) boat.If I had my wish, it would be a 21.5 boat.
1manshowwI am in Michigan and have a large tube Trophy 23″ pitch prop that I wont be using. It is dinged up on the blades but if you are willing to get it repaired, it should work well for you. Let me know if you want it.
Michigans economy is getting hit twice as hard with the auto industry and the housing slump. I have definitely noticed the lack of current model year boats that were the norm at most regional tournaments 3-5yrs ago. Most guys that were on yearly boat deals are now still driving their 3, 4 or 5 year old boats.
Send me a message and Ill give you all the help I can.jarrod.sherwoodATsbcglobalDOTnet
The correct direction to sand would be side to side.
The first year for us, the ducks were tiny! There were even little green frogs that would float up into the bushes. Needless to say , I never seen one.The next year after blasting off the first day, I spotted a big ol yellow duck wearing a Navy seamans hat and setting on the end of someones dock by a flower pot. I started to head over and pick it up but I thought for sure it was a decoration . I wasnt going to get yelled at for snatchin someones decoration so I just kept going. Well, that turned out to be the year they used the BIG ducks. This year will be my fifth time down and that is still the only duck I have ever seen on the lake!
My wife has a GMC Canyon crew cab and I would not attempt to pull a 20 boat with it. The 5 cylinder does not have the guts! If you were 5-10 flat miles from the launch, you might be okay but nothing more. GM also went to very small drum brakes on the rear, where the old S10 crew cabs were 4 wheel disks, so braking would also be a concern. She gets 20-21mpg with regular use.
Thank you! I did not think of water in fuel but I have been running the tanks a lot lower between fill ups. Delaying the pain if you know what I mean! This should be an easy fix! I guess the trim issue is seperate but I am pretty sure I know whats wrong there. Thanks again!
cougar FTD (currently advantage elite style hull) w/ 225opti. My boat is very heavily loaded with most storage in the bow area so that hurts efficiency. Im at ~ 3.1mpg @ WOT and can cruise around 3800rpms on smooth water in the high 4s. When my boat is not completely loaded for fishing it will run into the 5+ mpg range cruising. This is all with the smartcraft guage w/ GPS speeds.
My credit union is 5% minimum for boats and RVs. I have mine for 4.25% and I owe much less than I can dump it quickly for – just in case. I recommend setting this as a goal if you are financing your first boat or anything. Owe less than it is worth at a wholesale price!
With the valve turned to auto, the livewells will fill to be even with the lake level. On empty, it will prevent lake water from entering but will let water out of the livewell until it is even with the lake level if you are on the water. When you are running or on the trailer the remaining water will be let out of the livewell. So if you want livewells empty, switch to empty before putting in the water. If water is still coming in, there is probably a loose cable or worn flapper in the valve. If you want livewells full, switch to auto and run aerators and livewell fill (if equiped). If livewells drain when pulled out of the water (when switched to auto) there is probably a loose cable, worn flapper or the switch isnt all the way on auto. Hopefully this answers your question.
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