Trouble mounting Minn Kota TM

[smbassman]

I am replacing my MG tour with a MK Maxpro with 52″ shaft. I got the MG off alright and the holes seem to line up to the MK mount, but the rear corner of the mount is sitting on a lip of fiberglass and hitting the Nav light switch. Even with the rubber isolators between the deck and the mount, the rear 2 holes are not touching the rubber grommets. Is there a spacer plate available to put between the TM and the deck to lift the mount above the glass lip? Or should I just get an aluminum plate and make my own?This is on a 03 Cougar FTDThanks!

[Bass Cat Boats]

The Minn Kota and Motor Guide mounts do not interchange. Minn Kota reps will tell you they do, though only if the Motor Guide was hung out over the deck. This is false information and they are not universal.

[Bass Cat Boats]

I see two options – 1 – move the mount further forward off the front of the bow and drill new holes (not preferred).2 – add aluminum plate under the MK mount to elevate it so it clears the deck lip. Any other ideas?I guess I was wondering how others w/ 52″ MKs were mounted or how they would come from the factory. I would think this has been delt with before.Thank you.

[Bass Cat Boats]

We really dont do a swap here, unless we respray the deck and move placing to new holes. We just dont do it and we do not use the same holes. The mounts from our perspective do not work on the same holes. At the factory we install new units per order, and there are no holes in the deck and we do not share mounting locations.

[tschooler1956]

I have an 08 Puma & I changed from the MG 109 45″ shaft to MaxPro 101 52″ shaft. I used the rubber isolators to set the bracket on and modified the right rear corner of the plastic on the MK then used a piece of thin rubber matting to put down on the inside edge. Really didnt need the matting but just extra protection. Used the same holes as the MG and the aluminum backing plate under the deck. Had to get longer stainless bolts to get a full nylon lock nut on which I ordered from Tommy at Rockwall marine. Had to retighten one time but so far been working great for over a year. Hope this helps.Last edited by tschooler1956 on March 10th, 2010, 4:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[Rowdy Yates]

When I installed mine I ran into the exact same thing. I did a trim job on the base of the trolling motor plastic shroud to clear the rise in front of the switch. The trolling motor than was then able to sit flat on the cap of the hull. It did not have any adverse effect on stability of the trolling motor after getting it installed.

[wjh]

I swapped to a 52″ minn kota from a motorguide. The holes do not line up. There are 2 sets of holes in a minn kota, one is for mounting, and are reinforced holes, and the other are not nearly as sturdy looking. I drilled 5 new holes, reinstalled with aluminum plates that came with the motor guide, and fabricated 1 new plate. The mk needs 6 bolts, mg only 4. I also use a short arm ram mount to hold the motor down securley when travelling in rough water. It keeps it from bouncing up and down.

[smbassman]

Thanks to all that responded. Trimming the bracket is a possibility I didnt consider but I will look at.Basscat – Thank you as well. I guess I assumed you would not move the mount forward enough to clear this issue as the motor shaft would be well off the nose. I am sure you have it worked out for new installs.

[panteraIV]

One other issue to consider and plan for. I also changed to a 52″ Minn Kota on my Puma. I also had to trim for the fiberglass, added a ram mount, and was able to use the existing holes. But, I cannot open the rod locker door with the motor in the stowed position. I am not sure if the Motor Guide would have been any better as I didnt have it on there long enough to even try it. In order for it to open, the Minn Kota would have to sit too far off the bow for my liking.

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