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2002 Pantera III. Fresh water in stopped working today. Tested pump, pump is good. Light on rocker switch comes on, so have power at switch. “Pro air” push button breaker near switch not tripped. All other pumps working. Is it possible for the rocker switch to be bad where it’s not sending power to the pump but still light up the red light?
You need to check the voltage in and the voltage out at the switch. The light doesn’t require as much current to shine as the pump does to run.
I just fought a lot of electrical problems on my 01 P3 and corrosion at the ground block on the transom was the main problem.
As 1stinLA stated, check the ground terminal block in the bilge area. Clean if corroded with rust.
Check for voltage at the terminals for the pump.
<cite>1stinLA:</cite>
<div class=”blockquote-content”>I just fought a lot of electrical problems on my 01 P3 and corrosion at the ground block on the transom was the main problem.
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I wouldnt be afraid to say this block accounts for 70+% of electrical problem on bcb boat. Clean all connections and a good coat of dieelectric grease goes a long way!. The only problem is it is aggravating to get to!!
Thanks for the replies! I’m not gonna get a chance to work on her today. I’ll check the ground block again, but I will say, unlike others, my block has remained surprisingly clean and tight and has never caused me a problem. Will try more voltage checks as suggested. Suspecting the rocker switch.
Getting to it is a pain, so I moved mine about 5 inches closer to the center of the boat so I can get to it easier in the future. I had to change at least 2 jumpers, so I just made a complete new set using the old one as my guide.
I’m baffled. Voltage into switch (red wire) good, voltage out of switch (green wire) good. Jumpered pump direct to battery, pump is good. Appears there is an interruption in power between the switch and the pump. Do not observe any damage to wiring. The pumps wire bundle seems pretty secure, just lays in the bilge and is incased in a protective sleeve/wrap.
Just an idea. Did you try running a jumper to the switch from the pump? Sometimes a bad connection will show good voltage but it will not carry enough amperage to turn the pump.
To check if its a switch issue, Swap out the pump in for the pump out switch. They are next to each other and should be identical. If the pump works, than its a switch issue, if it doesn’t, you have eliminated that probability. Remember to make sure wires do not touch each other when removing them from the switches as they will be hot. I would turn off the Master switch until the swap is made.
Check your ground wire from the pump to the terminal block. Make sure you have continuity. Next check your power wire for chaffing. If good, than just behind the connector clean off some plastic to expose fresh wire. Check for voltage. If you have power, than cut off the old connector and replace it. May be corroded wire in the connector.
If I remember correctly, isn’t there some protective feature built into these pump systems? Seems when they start drawing too many amps they won’t work as a protective feature. Maybe BCB will chime in on this one. So before you start chasing your tail, call service maybe. Your jumper would bypass this and make the pump run, even though it’s faulty.
This is either a power switch, wire issue or a faulty pump. There is no circuit protection other than the separate breaker on this pump.
Please also visit the how to use the livewells section in the FAQ as this pump is not required. They were installed to assist with culling decades ago. Eventually they became a back up when we dropped down from 10 and 7 fish limits. The Aerator on the valve also fills the livewells.
BCB
apdriver:
If I remember correctly, isn’t there some protective feature built into these pump systems? Seems when they start drawing too many amps they won’t work as a protective feature. Maybe BCB will chime in on this one. So before you start chasing your tail, call service maybe. Your jumper would bypass this and make the pump run, even though it’s faulty.
This is a good suggestion by apdriver. There is still one more thing I would try and then you should call BCB service.
Yes BCB has said that the pump head will run when connected directly to the battery but not when powered up by the switch and wiring.
At this point why not try swapping your pump head with another one in the boat and see if your “freshwater in” works. Then you know you have a bad pump module.
The switch is not the “weakest link” in the circuit. The most likely problem is either a grounding issue or the pump module itself.
Jumpered the pump directly to the switch today: pump ground wire to switch ground terminal, pump power wire to switch accessory (green) terminal – pump worked perfectly with switch.
Next jumpered JUST the pump ground wire to the switch ground terminal. Did not jumper the power, reconnected the original pump power wire to the original switch accessory wire – pump worked perfectly with switch.
So… unless I’ve confused myself: switch is good, pump is good, GROUND IS BAD (as many of you have suggested).
Checked my terminal block again for corrosion and loose connections, can’t find any. Two grounds from switch to where? All the pump wires are bundled in a wrap in the bilge (very neat and secure) but difficult to trace pump ground to terminal block.
Guess you’all can tell by now, my electrical skills are pretty limited! I realize I can use the aerator pump to fill the live wells without the freshwater in pump, just like to have everything working as designed. Chasing the ground, chasing the ground……
I still cannot express checking every jumper wire on the terminal block, I checked mine about 4 times before finding that the wire was corroded inside of the insulation and it just would not carry a load.
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