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oldtimer57.
Thats strange.Ill bet you havent cut the part of the transom saver thats over your light bar, youre hitting your light bar and the saver isnt going all the way down on the roller. That would push the crossmember where youd see it bend but truly wouldnt seat the saver on the roller.Am I right?Well if not Id just get a small bungee and bungee the saver around the trailer crossmember as well as your bungee over the lower unit. Thatll hold it- WardC.O.D. Jr. III
Dont worry about the cross member and the flex is acceptable. BCB
This one makes me curious… I was told that the ETEC is intentionally designed to use the “flip down” incorporated in the mount as acceptable support for trailering. Is this true or false? Further to that, if it is true would BCB recommend the addition of the transom saver?http://www.justsayhi.com/bb/files/count … r=0&un=BCB OWNERS INVITATIONAL&size=normal&mo=03&da=27&yr=2007″ width=”250″ height=”80″>http://www.justsayhi.com/bb/files/count … r=0&un=BCB OWNERS INVITATIONAL&size=normal&mo=03&da=27&yr=2007″ />http://assets.justsayhi.com/badges/521/ … 57ol3i.jpg” alt=”” style=”display: none;” height=”1″ width=”1″ />
I have one of these and love it. Buy the centering clips as well. Everything fits right in the smallest compartment with ease. No need to have the big clunky transom save in the way. http://www.m-ywedge.com/Bill Spence St. Albans, VT [url=mailto:billspence@yahoo.com]billspence@yahoo.com[/url] http://www.twinstatebassin.com Bass Cat Boats http://www.basscat.com Vexilar Marine Electronics http://www.vexilar.com
There are many posts we have made wehre we only suggest a full length transom saver. Motor brackets only protect the engine, not the transom flex in various cases. BCB
I have an evinrude. I use the flip down transom saver AND the long transom saver that BCB recommends. Cut the saver the right lenght and you have leave the evinrude saver about 4mm short of hitting home and youve got double coverage that makes everyone happy-C.O.D. Jr. III
You need to study what is going on carefully. The “flip down” approach just keeps the motor from swinging down on its bracket. But it doesnt keep the motor from exerting force on the transom every time you hit a bump. The transom-saver approach builds a truss, with the transom as one side, the motor center section/gearcase as the second side, and the transom saver forms the third side locking things in as stable a configuration as you can get given that the rear trailer cross-member is not super strong in the fore/aft/up/down directions, it is designed to be a tension/compression member to keep the two sides of the trailer in the correct relationship spacing-wise… I have seen one person weld a matching square tube from the rear cross-member to the middle of the trailer. And that stiffens things up remarkably. But it would be a no-no for steep launches as your bow might well contact that at a steep angle… The best position for towing, only considering the transom is to have the motor in the “run” position. Then things are under a constant strain. When you balance the motor up on the bracket, it is easier for each bump to rock it back and forth. Problem with towing “down” is you will end up with a “short skeg”. I followed a large salt-water type boat on the interstate a couple of weeks ago, he had a couple of 300 Yamahas on the back… They were in the “up” position and they were bouncing a _lot_. Those powerheads are way heavy, far heavier than the lower unit and mid-section so there is no “balancing” them at all, they just rock along. And we have to hope his transom was up to the task. My current approach uses a pretty simple custom bracket I made myself. Normal transom saver on the lower unit end, other end slips on and is pinned to a bracket permanently mounted to the trailer. I got the idea from a guy that had done this in a much more complicated way where he had two brackets on the trailer, one on each side near the fender, going to a triangle connector that then supported the motor. This nicely solved the rear crossmember flexing since his brackets are mounted on each end of that crossmember rather than in the center. But I didnt feel like taking the time to find the right components and putting it together… I did mine because on occasion when going over a fairly bumpy road, I would arrive and find the “U” was off the center roller. I initially used a strap to capture the thing, but it would still find a way to work itself loose… Note I did not go too fancy and have the saver swing to the side and latch to the trailer. I just pull the pin, remove the strap around the lower unit and put the whole thing in my truck letting the bracket swing free (it is about 3″ long)… Main thing is to stop the fore/aft motor rocking as that stress should be avoided. It gets enough stress back there transferring all the horsepower to the hull thru that flat surface…2008 Pantera Classic2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
this comes up about once a week and BCB recommends the type that goes all the way to the trailer.
http://basscatowners.yuku.com/topic/1229796 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
The pro adjustable full length but you have to cut the bottom half of the round end that goes over the roller. In the FAQ section there is a lot on this. You will need to cut 2-3″ off or it knocks out the middle light under the roller. Believe me, I know. I didnt cut enough off and broke mine….. New three light piece is $20 plus shipping.
Full length Transom Saver it helps the trailer absorb some of the shock during traveling rather than just the transom. Hope this helps.BCB Admin
I am have alot of bouncing with my motor when trailing, I have a 2006 Puma w/ 225 E-Tec. The transom saver just slides acoss back roller, I trimmed it down until I see the back cross member bowing. Any suggestions as to new type of Transom saver I can get or remedies. Thanks
I may be wrong on this Physics behind the transome saver systems is to transfer the force of the bouncing motor to the trailer.This completes the triangle (transome , motor , transome saver)Almost all the downward forces that are created from the motor bouncing is transfered to the trailer and so the transome doesnt feel the prying forces.Just think of the damage that a three hundred pound man can cause bouncing on the end of a three foot crowbar. Thats what happens when the motor is allowed to bounce on the transome when you hit a bump on the highway.All this rambling is because I can not see how the product mentioned can transfered any force from the transome to the trailer.Like I said I might be wrong about what I see as I havent actually used the for mentioned productPlease let me know how you make outPractice Angling CPRCatchPictureRelease2010 PIV 200SHO
They are not suggested by BCB. They only suggest a full length Transom Saver.
They always have recommended a full length transom saver. Thats what Ive used without issue for over 25 years. My brother has experimented with other styles over the years but always comes back to the original. There are plusses and minuses to each, but some of the “benefits” of the others (“easier to store”), cracks me up…………96 Eyra/12 Mercury 175 Pro XS with 2015 single axle trailer2017 Victory Gunner
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