Another vote for Sherm custom mount. Helix 12 on my 2008 pII. This was built to cover hole from previous mounted unit and for hbird 997. Does not impair forward vision as might appear in picture. Get a piece of cutting board to make a custom backer on inside of console as his mounts only come with big washers that did not seem sufficient for weight of these big units. Cheap insurance.
So use a 25/64 bit to drill for the anchors in seat pan. What size bit best for drilling new holes for screws that go through seat back? Do I just drill through the seat rail to attach to new holes in seat pan since no bracket on new seat? Really, dont see another way as does not appear there is any way to remove bracket from old seat.
So I’m running a 200 hpdi so it may not be a fair comparison….it depends on how you fish but I would say for me that 90% of the time it is. I have always found myself managing fuel though or watching the gauge and running it close. Folks can correct me if wrong but a 33 gallon tank realistically gives you about 30 gallons of useable fuel. I have run mine down to fumes according to the sight window and I’ve never been able to get more than about 28 to 30 gallons back in it, even if I tilt boat on incline and purge air as best as possible. I’d say my range is right at about 80-90 miles give or take if I run at about 5200 or so. If you fish enough tournaments you probably will find situations where you want more fuel.
No that would be round trip. Figure 2-3 miles per gallon. 60 miles overalls in a day of fishing is comfortable. I’ll have 1/4 tank left. Much more than that and I’m in the last bar on my Yamaha fuel gauge and little uneasy.
Yeah problem is bilge is fuel. Power pole pumps, 4 batteries don’t leave much space.
Yeah I get it…I know I could put weight back in the back and get back where I was but that kind of defeats a big part of why I got lithium’s in the first place. I hoped for more top end. Kind of dumb to throw dumbbells back in the boat if I don’t have to. I have shifted as much tackle, etc as possible to the back and I lowered the motor to about 3.75 below pad to get more lift. I feel like I get now lift now but it’s like the boat stalls on speed at about 5200 – 5300 rpms. I probably only gain 2mph from 5300 to 5600 and I cannot exceed those Rpms before motor starts to blow out and lose speed. And it’s extremely sensitive to differing weight loads from day to day on top end. Holeshot is way better than with previous setup though. I can actually see on the boat water line where it drafts an inch or so less now. A p2 is not big boat for three 100ah agms for 36v tm plus another starting battery so I assumed shedding weight would be ticket but I was wrong.
I guess main question here is do you think hydraulic plate and correct prop will get me where I want to go or am I wasting time. All I’m trying to do is have everything running efficiently as possible and it’s definitely not there right now. Also cautionary tale for those thinking lithium’s will equal more speed in all situations.
Basically same running conditions as far as temp, etc. Boat used to run 69-70 no matter what. First thing in morning with full tank, empty tank end of day, full live wells, empty live wells, biggun passengers, little kids. 69-70 all the time at 5800 rpm. Boat would just barely kick a rooster tail when running at optimal height. Fastest boat ever ran was 74 when I first got it in 2012 with 28 hrs on motor. I had it stripped down one day with no trolling motor when I was swapping the tm out. But, after putting power poles on, tackle, 36 volt tm, etc it dropped to the 69-70. I was actually concerned I had too much weight in the back as I don’t see many p2 running 36 tm with three big batteries and power poles. Now speed is all over the place depending on all the factors you all have mentioned like full/empty live wells, etc. worst performance is 66 at 5600 and best is 68 at 5600. And motor seems to be throwing much higher rooster tail to hit 5600
I figured swapping to lithium’s would get me back to 72ish. I think I’m gonna bite bullet and get hydraulic jackplate as i could use it a bunch for the way I fish anyhow. I’d like to try another prop someday if y’all have any suggestions.
This may seem like no brainer but take lights off and run them direct to spare battery 1) to give you confidence they work, 2) figure out exactly how they need to be wired to work. Much easier to play around with grounding etc for me when I’ve removed as much complexity as possible. I bought some backup lights recently and had to do this to figure out exactly what was going on. Trailer lights and plumbing are scary for everyone.
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